Zuoyun - Liangcheng; Hello Inner Mongolia!

Zuoyun

Datong managed to sap the enthusiasm right out of us both, and the road to Zuoyun did nothing to help bring it back. It was an overcast day, forecast for light rain. The traffic was heavy and fast, and there was no shoulder on the road for smaller vehicles. The air remained thick with coal, and by the time we reached Zuoyun we had passed a hand full of coal mines.

Our great road selection heading out of Datong

However, once again China managed to pull us back in as after being unable to identify a place to stay in town we stopped in at a convenience store to buy some food (one of every kind of biscuit) and drink, and ask where a hotel could be found. The incredibly kind owner not only pointed us in the right direction, making sure we understood clearly what he was talking about, but he let us leave with our newly acquired spoils free of charge.

Liangcheng

This ride has been an absolute highlight of the trip so far. It started with a ride approximately 15km straight up a valley. At a village about 10km in Calvin attempted to go around a speed bump getting very close to a small roadside wall.  While focusing on the locals staring at us and contemplating what might be under a large blanket he could see in the distance his senses got jumbled (probably due to multitasking) and he scraped his front tyre then smashed his front pannier against the wall. Classic. Some bending of the rack back to normal, adjusting of the brakes and we were off again.

From the last village in the valley rose a mountain range, scattered with remnants of the Great Wall of China, and a winding road of switchbacks leading to the top. What a spectacular climb. China sure has a knack for making even the most impassable looking area a smooth and gentle ride uphill. At the top of the mountain  (1932m – Kate won, Calvin on laundry duty) we passed from the Shanxi province into Inner Mongolia. The road was absolutely dead bar some cows, sheep, and one very shaggy looking bull that reminded us of a Highland koo. The descent to Liangcheng came in three bouts, each time dropping onto a new wee plateau followed by a short climb.

Today we go up

Old dirt mound remnant of a Great Wall tower

Calvin's on laundry

Then we went down!!! Then up. Then down! Then up. Then down!

We never cease to be amazed at the friendliness and helpfulness of the people here. On a rest day in Liangcheng, we bumped into a lovely lady (Zhang Yan) at a convenience store who spoke a little English. She proceeded to help us communicate with the shopkeeper, followed by driving us to the local supermarket, then inviting us out for dinner. It was an interesting (bullfrog, amazing spicy whole fish, bacon deliciousness and cucumber joy) and very generous dinner. The funny thing about sharing dinner with Zhang Yan was not the difficultly in having conversation but that neither of us thought about taking a photo. It was not until we said goodbye that we realised this. A shame to not have one but it felt so relaxed just sharing the occasion with her. Thanks.