Saynshand - Choyr

Fromn Saynshand the first day of biking has gone smoothly, and we have made a solid effort in the expected five day journey to Choyr via Airag.

Sweet camping spot

The reality is that although I thought paved road would be easy, this is very much a challenge. We are both currently pretty exhausted - mostly mentally. The constant and persistent wind definitely takes its toll and puts us on edge. We have found our moods change with the wind and clouds, and I am regularly working from the bottom of my fuel reserve. We have questioned a number of times whether this is a journey we will see all the way through to Ulaanbaatar. But there is only one way to find out.

A break from the wind

Today we made it to Airag after another battle with the wind. We settled down to a hot lunch where we watched through the window as droves of young boys, many with their own bikes, gathered around our bikes prodding and touching. After lunch, when all the spectators had dispersed, we offered the cooks son a push around on our bikes. He was very shy, but we lifted him up on to Calvin's bike and with his little arms stretching their full length to reach the handlebars he was pushed around in the gravel with his nervous wee grin. With him dismounted, we remounted and were about to take off when a few of the boys returned and offered us lollipops. We were mimed to stick them directly on to our tongues and then remove them leaving a big purple alien print on our tongues. With that they were satisfied, they waved us goodbye and they were gone.

Once again we set off into the wind, and 3km out of town nestled down into a camping spot in another quarry. We are both agreed that it is time for some relaxation, so Calvin is reading and at the end of this sentence I will have a nap.

Two more days of riding and we'll be in Choyr where we have agreed on a compulsory rest day.

We wake up, eat breakfast, pack up, re-chain the bikes, then load the bikes as the morning winds set in and you start to get colder and colder. Kate cracked, the tears came out. The endless days of riding in head winds, having little reprieve and the short tempers we have from the annoying winds had beaten us down. So it was a quiet ride in the morning, each in our own thoughts and slowly pushing along. 

20km down the road we pulled into Dalanjargalan. A small town with a great little convenience store a couple of hundred metres off the highway. Having previously talked about getting some bread and savoury snacks we came away with chocolate biscuits, strawberry sponge cream roll and cream filled buns. It was good, although some regret came later when coming off a sugar high and wanting savoury food.

Our next pleasant surprise waiting down the road, or more so whizzing along with a tail wind towards us, was the first cycle tourer we have seen on our journey. We were a bit bewildered but keen to have a chat and share some stories about what lay ahead for each other. An older aged Chinese man slowly eventuated. He pulled over with much excitement in seeing us and started speaking Chinese (we think) only to realise we suck at speaking Chinese. So it was a conversation of many hand gestures, laughs, pointing at bikes, miming that he was bloody lucky (or just really intelligent) having the wind behind him the whole way, a few photos and then we departed in opposite directions. His set up was fairly basic: handle bar bag was a big basket and pannier bags some soft case bags strapped to his bike.

Our camp site that night was a great spot tucked up between some low rolling hills with a great view all around, including what were the closest thing to mountains we have seen. The local farmer also came over for a curious hello after moving his stock toward us. Although he appeared completely unphased by us, I think he was just as surprised at us as we were at him. After a miserable start to the day it managed to turn into one of great surprises.

Night times in the tent so far have been quite pleasant with winds dying down overnight (except the storm) and the sky clears to present a fantastic display of stars including an upside down "Big Dipper" or "The Pot". The lowest temperature we have hit so far is -4 but wrapped up in sleeping bags and many thermals it has been comfortable sleeping until you need to pee!

The amazing nothingness

Our last day getting to Choyr was a joy. No morning wind, a slight tail wind and sun in full beam!! The bikes hummed along the road. We had a brief chat with a drunk guy who insisted on us showing him a map that was buried deep in one of our many panniers, then proceeded to clamber on the back of our bikes hoping for a ride before his sober friend gratefully kept him under control. Their vehicle had broken down so maybe he just wanted a ride?

Choyr appeared in front of us soon enough and we scouted around the town for somewhere to stay. A local pulled up next us trying converse, realised we didn't speak Mongolian so called his sister who translated between us that we were looking for somewhere to stay. "Follow us" was the answer, or more so his young son went and got his bike and we followed him back out of town to a hotel we had seen earlier at the turnoff from the highway.

It has been pleasant stay and much needed rest where copious amounts of food have been eaten, much sleep had, too much laundry done and unfortunately a cold shower endured. Stiff nipples and much shrinkage but good to feel clean again.