Zhongxing to Walnut Garden

Another day of riding in scorching hot weather took us across the Yangtze and back towards Shigu. As we rounded the first bend we were treated to a spectacular snow capped mountain range rising up in front of us. We continued to follow the river, crossing whenever possible to ensure we were riding on the opposite side to the traffic heading along the main road. The final section of this road was undergoing road works. The sun was scorching hot, our skin was beginning to burn (we are almost certain our sunscreen purchased in China was not great quality) and we were running out of water quickly. Great conditions to push on a little further.

Over the Yangtze

Following down the Yangtze

Tur off at the white yaks climbing the "rocks"

We knew we had hit our destination town, Hutiaoxia when we came to a halt in a long line of backed up traffic. This road is the main road from Tiger Leaping Gorge to the famous Shangri-la and it is a narrow nightmare considering the number of tourist buses and trucks on the road, especially as it bottle necks in this town. The backed up traffic is however part of the solution as almost every road in this town was ripped up and being rebuilt.

Where's Kate?

After staying a night Hutiaoxia we headed in to the Tiger Leaping Gorge park. It was another sweltering day, and Kate was feeling drained and in pain as her arms were badly burnt from the day before and her only solution to covering them up was to wear her rain jacket which made for an incredibly stuffy ride. We stopped at the upper section of the gorge, and donning our umbrellas we descended down to the river with the masses of Chinese tourists. This point in the gorge is pretty spectacular as the sheer quantity and force of the water cascades down over a large rock in the centre. Legend has it that a tiger leapt from one side of the gorge to the rock in the middle and over to the other side. It would have to be a pretty damn low flowing river for me to believe that legend.

That Tiger leapt over this gorge using this rock. Wow! Let's go tubing!

View from above. Photos just don't do the gorge any justice.

From the upper gorge we made our way along the winding road which precariously hugged into the edge of the mountain sides, was single laned at times due to rock fall and every turn gave a spectacular view and appreciation of the surrounding 4500m peaked mountains that rose directly from the gorge. Mind blowing and spectacular. Upon arriving at our lovely guesthouse (Tibetan Guesthouse) we dumped our gear and lounged in some much needed shade. We struck up a conversation with one of the owners (who spoke great english - our Chinese wasn't that good!) who ignited excitement in us for two reasons; mentioning they made Yak meat sandwiches and explaining how spectacular it is to take the back road from here to Shangri La (not going that way unfortunately) or in our case the back road over to Lijiang.

Why wouldn't you build a road?!

For the last couple of days we had swung to and fro trying to decide if we would back track up the gorge and follow the main road to Lijiang, or if we would take the seriously winding back road that went through a large mountain pass. We had read an account from 2011 of someone riding this road and finding it to be entirely cobblestone. They had had to hitch a ride half way as they were losing light quickly. However, with assurance from our guesthouse owner that the road was now sealed and all we had to do was head down to the river, wave the ferry over for it to arrive in two minutes to take us on the two minute return trip we were convinced. So that afternoon we set out on a reconnaissance mission to find where the ferry should leave from - Kate now wearing and testing out her newly acquired long sleeve shirt (Calvin's only shirt). The Ferry turn off was exactly where we were told it would be, "about two corners after the petrol station, maybe 1km and signposted Ferry. You can't  miss it.'" The signpost was a large rock with "Ferry --->" conveniently written in english on it and luckily only on the side we approached it from. Bingo. (For anyone coming from the other direction it would only be about a kilometre once you leave Jiandian, however we wouldn't  be surprised if in a year's time there is a bridge across as construction appeared to have begun). Feeling successful we headed back to enjoy the remaining hours and dinner at our guesthouse while gazing at the sheer rock faces across the gorge from us.